It is an eternal search finding the perfect shade of lip color. We try and try and just when we think we’ve got it we tan, we pale, the seasons change or our shade is discontinued. The search goes on. Well, there are secrets, my friend. Secrets known only by those who make them and its these tips that make the greats in the cosmetic industry so amazing. One such woman, Bobbi Brown, decided to share how she finds the perfect lip color and how she uses that shade that look just as great as that one, perfect lipstick.

To find the perfect neutral lipstick, you need to determine the base color of your lips. Are you peachy pink, apricot, peachy brown, rosy pink or eggplant? Finding this shade is the beginning to real versatility and freedom. This shade should be just slightly brighter than the natural color of your lips. This has to be chosen by what looks best on you, not by what’s popular or what looks great on your best friend. Your natural lip color is yours and yours alone. What looks amazing on your friend may look washed out or ashy on you. This neutral shade should even out your lips and add definition the way a light coat of mascara helps to open and define your eyes. This shade should always be brighter than your natural lips. It should never be the color of concealer like you see in fashion shows. Also remember that a matte lipstick that is lighter than the natural color of your lips can wash out your face completely.

When shopping for this perfect shade, try samples on the middle of your bottom lip in the daylight. This will give you the most accurate read of how it looks. Plan to test no more than four shades at a time as your lips will be stained and appear darker than your true color. It’s also a good idea to do this once in the winter and once in the summer since our lips tan just like the rest of our skin.

Our perfect shade, you’ll know where to look for new lipsticks and glosses because you can always find something in your color family even if your favorite shade disappears. You can also begin to layer colors for more formal occasions or nights out at holiday parties. If your neutral color is in the rosy pink family, you can easily use a deep burgundy to dress up your lips. For the best results begin by applying a light coat of your neutral color and then add a thin coat of whatever other color you want to try on top. Your neutral base color will help adjust the bolder color to your lip and skin tone.

We could all use a little bright color in our lives right now – just witness the timely revival of the exuberant day-glo clothes and artwork by the late Stephen Sprouse (a new Louis Vuitton handbag collection by Marc Jacobs, a book by Roger and Mauricio Padilha and a retrospective at downtown New York gallery Deitch Projects) – and one of the biggest beauty trends on the spring runways last September was uber-bright eyeshadow in a wide spectrum of shades. Electric blue, fuchsia and canary yellow were just some of the standouts.

“When wearing bright eyeshadow, you’re essentially bidding nature farewell, so in terms of shade selection, the world is your oyster,” said Craig Jessup, a New York-based makeup artist.

Here are his tips on how to get the punchy new look:

Balance is key. “I suppose a ‘natural’ look would involve one bright pop of color on the lid surrounded by neutrals in liner and crease color, and perhaps a nude or natural lip tone.”

Beware of bright eye, bright cheeks, bright lips! “This looks great on runways, drag queens, and new wave revivalists, but who wants to get picked up for street walking on their way to work at 8:30 in the morning?”

If you’re a bright color newbie… “You can test the waters by selecting a bright shadow in a sheer texture with some shimmer, which is more forgiving where blending is concerned, and less dramatic in color saturation.”

And for those not afraid of an all-out glam rock look… “Go for a densely pigmented matte shade that will appear on the lid as it does in its container. This looks best surrounded by a smoky eye, with grays and blacks of equally dense pigmentation.”

For those seeking a wide range of colors to choose from, color yourself happy with Bobbi Brown’s new Bobbi Brights Eye Palette that offers the best bet for those willing to experiment with everything from deep purple to magenta to emerald green and then some. At $70, it’s expensive, but a good value for the sheer volume of shades. For the more budget minded, Jessup recommends H.I.P (High Intensity Pigment) by L’Oreal, while M.A.C’s matte loose pigments have a long-standing tradition of dramatic color selection and long-wearing color.